CYCLING PERFORMANCE TIPS
Crank Length
Decisions on appropriate crank length
are often steeped in mystique and considered part of the "art" of coaching for
the competitive cyclists. Knee
pain, especially chondromalacia, is often an indicator that your crank
length is incorrect for you.
I did stumble across a nice review on the subject of
picking your crank length. Other issues that have might be considered (you
can make up your own mind on these) are:
- It has been recommended that competitive cyclists use shorter cranks than
the normally recommended to reduce the dead spot at the top of the cycle, from
9 to 12 o'clock (viewed from the rider facing to the right) and to allow a
shorter stroke through the strongest leg movement. This would avoid having the
knee bed less than 90 deg.
- There is data showing that the shorter the crank, the higher the cadence
that is possible (ultimately up to the rider). An increase in crank length
leads to an increase in the lever arm and the ability to more force.
- Competitive cyclists ride comparatively smaller gears on the track in
sprinting events (as opposed to the road) to allow optimal cadence in the
shortest time. This is especially the case on banked tracks where the sprinter
needs to changed direction suddenly at times. This facilitates reaching
optimal cadence in the shortest time ( accelerating out of the bends). The
same effect occurs with shorter cranks. The use of longer cranks allows for
more leverage and so more power but can lead to a dead spot at the top of the
stroke for those with a less than perfect pedal action & strength . In
endurance events where the requirement for high cadence is not as great, the
extra leverage is of benefit.
So if you feel more
comfortable turning big gears at lower cadences, you'll like your crank arms a
little longer. But if you prefer to spin at a higher cadence go with shorter
crankarms.
If you change your crankarm length on your current set up, don't forget to
adjust your seat height as changing crankarm length will change the distance
from your seat to the lowest point of the crank cycle.
Here's a starting point for suggested crank lengths based on traditional
wisdom - you can start here and then tailor them (up or down) to your own style
and preferences:
| Frame Size |
Crankarm |
Inseam |
Crankarm |
| 54 cm or less |
170 mm |
80 cm or less |
170 mm |
| 55 - 58 cm |
172.5 mm |
81 - 86 cm |
172.5 mm |
| 59 cm or greater |
175 mm |
87 cm or above |
175 mm |
And from another source (referencing your inseam in inches):
- inseam < 29 inches - 165 mm crank
- inseam 29 - 32 inches - 170 mm crank
- inseam 32 - 34 inches - 172.5 mm crank
- inseam > 34 inches - 175 mm crank
And for those of you
wanting to delve further into the subject, here is a link to a beta test version
of a Cranc Calc
Program being developed by Nigel Jones of Machinehead Software.
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